All roads lead to the center of the earth.

The title means in month of June 2010, the 2 dreamers Janak Japee & Nandeep Pathak are on their way to the most awaited journey of their life i.e. Leh – Ladakh.

It all started when Janak had heard of Khardungla Pass when he was in 8th grade & in the month of January 2006 when I got my license to drive, I always wondered, what is the maximum that an Vehicle can go. After little bit of effort and research, I got to know about the Khardungla Pass “The Highest Motorable Road in the world” situated at 18380 ft above the sea level in the state of Jammu & Kaskmir, India. From that day I was determined that I will conquer Khardungla Pass one day in my own vehicle.

Pre – Trip Preparation

After getting our leaves sanctioned from our respective offices finally the D – Day was decided, it was 5th June 2010. Preparation started from February 2010 onwards. It was a big trip and no one in our family has tried such things before, so everyone was damn cautious. They made us pack every possible things starting from winter clothes, jackets, hand gloves, food, dryfruits, water and so many other things. A day before the trip i.e. on 4th June 2010 both my mom dad helped me out with packing my stuff. We had a dinner together and were off to bed.

Day 1, 5th June 2010

Finally the D – Day had come. I was suppose to go to office since it was a half day in the office, I left around 10.30 AM from the office. Hahaha I know I just went to show them my face. We were scheduled to leave at 12:30 PM from my place. But as usual we left 1 hour late since many of our relatives had gathered at my place to see us(Me & Janak) off for the trip. Finally at 01:30 PM everyone was down in the building to flag off our journey and let me tell you we were flattered at that point of time, actually we felt, are we going on a war front, answer was no, but it atleast made us realize that we are doing something big. As per plan our target was to reach Manali, Himachal Pradesh by 6th evening. So after driving for an 4 hours we halted at Surat for tea break. From there we continuously drove to Himatnagar, Gujarat and by 10:00 PM we were at Himatnagar. From Himatnagar 2 more guys joined us One my younger brother Jatan Pathak & my cousin Chirag Pathak. After packing and adjusting luggage(which was a big headache) we left Himatnagar at 11:50 PM.

Day 2, 6th June 2010

After starting from Himatnagar we took next break at Udaipur for Tea around 02:30 AM. From then on we continuously drove uptil 04:30 AM upto Bhilwara and then it was unanimously decided to take a nap for 2 hours. So around 04:30 AM we halted for a nap and would you believe that place was petrol pump, Hahaha but it was fun. Around 06:30 AM we were ready to leave after having tea & snacks (tea, thepla, chutney) A road from Kishangarh to Jaipur is amazing. Around 11:30 AM we crossed Jaipur and finally at 04:00 PM we were able to cross Delhi. Delhi was fantastic, we went through India gate and then on to Delhi Chadigarh Highway. Around 08:30 PM we decide to stop for the day the place was Hotel Paradise, Ambala Chadigarh Highway. Manali was still around 300 kms. After having dinner everyone was fast asleep since we were driving continuously for 33 hrs.

Day 3, 7th June 2010

We checked out from the hotel around 10:00 AM and started for Manali. Hotel Paradise is very good place for stayover. After crossing Chadigarh we continued till Ropar, on our there was river flowing, I don’t no the name but the force was killer after some photo session we moved ahead, there is right turn for Manali from Ropar and the real driving starts from now. Until now we were driving in plains but now the hilly region starts. Believe me after crossing Ropar every point on the ghat feels like a hillstation, u just cant drive continuously for ½ hour. After clicking pics around swarghat, we halted for lunch, the food was delicious, Name of the restaurant I don’t remember. By 06:00 PM we were able to cross only Sundernagar, it meant that we are climbing the Sundernagar – Manali ghat in the night. Finally we managed to reach Manali around 11:50 PM. The ghat from Mandi to Manali are extremely dangerous, be extra cautious on the curves, avoid overtaking on the blind curves, one will pass through the tunnel after kullu, the tunnel is huge probably 4kms. We checked in Hotel Manali Inn, rooms were really good, the view from the room was also fantastic, good parking facility as well.

Day 3, 8th June 2010

Day 3 was dedicated for local sight seeing in Manali. We went to Hadimba temple believe me Manali is a very hyped place, only Solang valley & Rohtang pass was fun else its full of traffic & narrow roads. Till then we were getting news that Manali Leh Highway is closed due to heavy snowfall, so everyone was upset, but we didn’t had a choice we decided to wait for one more day.

Day 4, 9th June 2010

On day 4 we were scheduled to leave for the Leh. One more person , Mr Navneet Somani joined us, actually he is Chirag’s friend and he was damn excited about Manali Leh Highway. Knowing that Manali Leh is closed we still proceeded further, after clearing Manali Traffic we moved ahead. We made it till Marhi, further roads were closed and would open up probably after 10 days as per our talk with Border Road Organisations, so we had to move back, never mind we had fun on our way to Marhi clicking pics, having omlette, tea etc. The temperature in Marhi was around 2 to 3 degree. It was freezing cold. While returning back from Marhi to Manali it took us 5 hours, heavy traffic, rain disrupted everything. After reaching hotel we had our dinner which was bit quite than usual since everyone was upset. After discussion we decided that we are not quiting it, but we will try from other way round i.e. Srinagar route.

Day 5, 10th June 2010

As per plans todays target was to reach Katra by night. So the route was Manali – Kullu - Mandi - Pathankot – Jammu - Katra. We started around 10:00 AM as usual we were 2 hour late as per the schedule never mind slowly we proceeded ahead passing through the ghats of Kullu & Mandi, Fruits are really fresh around Mandi. We had our Lunch in the small village on way to Pathankot, the food was delicious. Finally around 07:00 PM we made it to Pathankot. After having pani – puri for ourself and diesel for my car we proceeded ahead for Jammu. On the way we passed through the Border of Jammu & Kashmir. No networks for the prepaid phones, so if possible atleast carry 1 postpaid card with you. Around 10:30 PM it was dinner time, the place was a cool dhaba, again food was delicious.

Day 6, 11th June 2010

Finally around 02:00 AM we reached Katra and checked out in the Hotel Bali Palace, rooms are very good, rates are reasonable. Todays target was to pay tribute to Vaishnodevi mata, initially we decided to go by chopper, but since our luck was not on our side, choppers were full, seats were not available, so it was decided to walk all the way on to the top we started walking around 02:00 PM after light snacks at a cool food joint in Katra. We were able to reach the top around 06:00 PM after darshan of Holy Vaishnodevi Mata we proceeded for the darshan of Bhairav, climbing Bhairav was difficult. Around 11:00 PM we started for the downwards journey, let me tell you the downward journey was more painfull cause slopes are really steep and breaking takes an effort.

Day 7, 12th June 2010

However around 04:30 AM we reached our hotel and were fast asleep in no time. Everyone was awake by 11:00 AM, getting out of bed was trouble. However everyone managed  because of the hot water that was waiting for them in the batrhroom. Today Navneet was suppose to leave us, so after booking his tickets & lunch Janak, Me, Chirag & Jatan proceeded ahead from Katra. Today Night halt was Patnitop. Around 07:00 PM we checked into Hotel Forest View, the rooms were by far the best we had ever got in the trip. Food was decent and climate was freezing. Maza aa gaya.

Day 8, 13th June 2010

Today we were suppose to reach Srinagar by evening. We started around 10:00 AM from Patnitop. The Jammu Srinagar Highway passes through many beautifull villages, mountains etc. On the way we passed through Jawahar Tunnel, the tunnel has been constructed by Border Road Organisation and is the boon to this highway it reduces atleast 2 hours travelling time. Post Jawahar tunnel u get to see the first view of Kashmir valley. On the way there is Titanic View point, do have a look when u pass through it. After crossing Jawahar Tunnel u can see army personnel standing at every 5 to 10 kms on both the sides of the highway. Around 05:00 PM we reached Dal Gate, Srinagar. After checking out parking facility we checked into the House Boat “New Swift”. I had always heard of house boat and people staying in it, and when we went there it was like dream come true for me. After freshening ourself we proceeded for a shikara ride. We went through the world of this lake. The lake had everything houses, markets, business, vegetations etc. After the ride we had a dinner on the deck of the House boat. It was a lifetime experience.

Day 9, 14th June 2010

Today was dedicated for local sightseeing, so we were suppose to go to Gulmarg, we proceeded around 08:00 AM for Gulmarg. Since Srinagar is always in trouble the roads to Gulmarg were closed due to some stone pelting, however around 10:00 AM roads were finally opened up under military observation and we proceeded to Gulmarg. The road going to Gulmarg is beautiful & scenic. Once you touch Gulmarg locals will stick to you for winter clothes, horse ride, winter shoes, Strictly stay away from them, else they will looto you like anything, Normal winter clothes, good sports shoes are ok and you can manage with the cold. Also you need to make an entry at J&K Tourism office for the arrival. Gulmarg has long spread gardens, skiing centre, beautiful landscapes, You can see this by Cable Car “Gondula” that is what locals call them, Cable Car centre is 1.5 km away from Parking. There are 3 phases, skiing centre and winter sports centre are situated on the thisrd phase. The overall cost of Gondula upto third phase is Rs. 1,200 per head. So after going upto phase 2 it was already dark however time was just 04:00 PM. Weather was really bad when we went on to phase 2, however we had fun playing in the snow. On the way back to Srinagar from Gulmarg, the Lal Chowk area was closed due to stone pelting. Hence we were not allowed by CRPF for the Lal Chowk. Anyways day ended with dinner on the deck of house boat. Tomorrow was the biggest day in each one of life as we were suppose to move towards Leh from Srinagar.

Day 10, 15th June 2010

Getting up at 05:00 AM was difficult but we managed and around 06:20 AM we left Srinagar, today we were suppose to reach Kargil by evening. The road passes through the beautiful valley of Sonmarg, Zozila, Drass. A tea at Sonmarg was a very beautiful experience. Crossing Zozila pass was the most memorable moment in my life, believe me there were no roads we have to make our own way, on one side you will find mountain and on other side 1000 ft deep valley. Finally we passed through Zozila Pass, which has a war history in 1947-48. Futher we passed through Drass & war memorial, the jawan at the kargil war memorial explained us everything about how war took place, what are the reasons, battle fields, etc. The narration by the jawan will definitely create and anger in you, you will definitely feel like killing bastards & cowards who create unnecessary trouble. After seeing war memorial we proceeded further to Kargil, believe me everyone was quite for next 1 hour. It was the kickass experience and it made me realize that I am an Indian. Every Indian should visit this place and pay tribute to this jawans who laid their life on the toughest battlefields, where survival itself is a question, this jawans fought and won the terrains. Slowly we moved ahead and reached Kargil around 04:00 PM. Kargil is a small village type of town, it came into light only after Kargil war. Let me tell you one thing people in Kargil have very good dressing sense. After checking out in Hotel Caravan Sarai we had nice tea & bread toast. From the hotel we were able to see entire kargil. We heard many things from the owner of the hotel about the situation during wartime. It was really touching.

Day 11, 16th June 2010

Today was the day we were getting Leh’ed, we started from Kargil around 06:00 AM. The temperature in the morning was around 4 degree it was freezing. On the way we passed through Namikla Pass, Fotula Top “The Highest point on the Srinagar Leh Highway” Lamayuru, Alchi and Finally Leh. On our way to leh we passed through magnetic hill where car moves on its own due to influence of magnet. It actually did, I have shooted a movie. Reaching leh was like dream come true. Everynow and then we halted for the photo session, we didn’t know what to do, we were so excited. In the evening after checking out in the Gangaba Guest House we moved to Shanti Stupa, many times we ran out of the breath while climbing Shanti Stupa, but we managed it with the breaks at regular intervals. From the top of Shati stupa one gets the entire view of Leh City. There is a canteen on the top of Shanti Stupa which serves very good tea & maggi, it freshens you up. The place were we stayed is Gangba guest house, its actually maintained by ladakhi family, who provide dinner, lunch, tea, breakfast at there place, they are very welcoming. We enjoyed our stay and rates are very reasonable.

Day 12, 17th June 2010

Today was the D – Day, we were on our way to Khardungla Pass, Nubra Valley after getting the permits from the DC Office we proceeded for the mission khardungla and on reaching south pullu, our dreams were once again shattered by the god weather the road ahead was closed due to avalanche. We were like what is happening, why me, but I was helpless at that moment. We straight away proceeded to our guest house and slept. We were awake around 09:00 PM. After having dinner we again we went to bed. By far this was the worst day for me cause a guy who is driving all the way from Mumbai just to touch the highest motorable road and the roads are blocked. Anyways I guess it was testing time for us.

Day 13, 18th June 2010

Today we were suppose to go to Pangong Tso Lake “haaan bhai 3 idiots wala i.e .phunshuk wangroo ka lake” we started around 07:00 AM for the Pangong Tso lake, on the way we passed through Changla Pass the third highest pass in the world. Climbing Chagla was horrible, snow was spread everywhere on the road, My Vehicle Scorpio used to slip, it was very dangerous, we were suppose to maintain distance between 2 vehicles. After crossing Changla there is decent on towards the Pangong Lake. The roads are good after the Changla Pass till 5 to 6 Kms before Pangong Tso lake. On the way one passes through the board “First view of Pangong Tso Lake” do click a pic near it. On reaching Pangong Tso Lake the first word I spoke is where is the camera. Its mindblowing, tremendous, unbelievable , words will fell short to describe the beauty of the lake. If one can see it properly you can observe 7 colors in the lake. After photo session we went ahead on the lake and to welcome us our car got stuck in the sand. Some local drivers helped us in taking out the big scorpio. They guys were very excited for removing our car from the sand. After clicking pics with them we proceeded back for the return journey to leh. Again crossing and passing through changla was difficult even scorpio was running short of breath, but any how we managed it and climbed the changla again. By it was one of the best day in the trip. After reaching leh, we proceeded for some shopping in the leh market. The day closed with dinner and chatting about the memories of the day.

Day 14, 19th June 2010

It was time for us to leave the leh city but everyone had a wish to try for khardungla again, so after packing our luggage in the car we proceeded again for conquering the khardungla pass. On reaching south pullu all of us heaved a sigh of relief, since roads were open, Khardungla was 14 kms away. Bhagwan ka naam leke we started and within ½ hour we saw a board called “Khardungla Pass, The highest motorable road in the world” again I shouted “where is the camera”, we clicked as many pics as possible. After having tea at khardungla pass and bit of shopping we again moved back to Leh, since Leh Manali Highway was closed we had to take Srinagar route again. So by evening we were at Kargil, Kudos to Janak for his quick driving in the hills. Hotel Caravansarai zindabad. After dinner straight to bed since everyone was tired and next day’s target was steep Kargil to Amritsar, we are mad.

Day 15, 20th June 2010

We started from Kargil around 06:00 AM, today there were less of photos since we were passing through the same route again. Slowly but steadily we cleared Drass, Zozila took a lot of time because of bad roads and traffic. Around 01:00 we were at Srinagar. After some shopping we started for Jammu. Crossed Jawahar Tunnel by 03:30 PM, reached Patnitop around 07:00 PM after having light refreshment started for Jammu and Amritsar crossed Jammu by 10:30 PM. Amritsar was still 200 kms away, after a small chat over a tea we decide lets do it. So started for Amritsar.

Day 16, 21st June 2010

Reached Amritsar by 03:00 AM, checked into Hotel Randhawa International. Avoid night travelling in Punjab, Cops are bastards without any reason they ask for money we almost lost Rs. 300. After a shower every one was fast asleep. We woke up around 10:00 AM in the morning. Around 02:00 PM after lunch we went to Golden temple. Again one of the beautiful example of architecture. Matha tekke we went to Jallianwala Bagh, History yad aa gayi, saw that well which we use to see in history text book. It was fun. The temperature in Amritsar was really hot around 45 degree. Next target was Wagah Border so around 03:00 PM we were on the way to Atari finally we reached Wagah after parking our car we headed straight to the stadium were parade ceremony is carried out. We also saw “Sada e Sarhad” bus running between Delhi & Lahore. I actually saw the bus crossing the border, I felt like chal yar Lahore bhi ho aate he. Parade ceremony started around 05:45 PM another experience that made me realize that I am Indian. The officers involved in the parade ceremony, what an anger and power they generate in the ceremony, it’s a kickass experience. There is humungous crowd on Indian side everyday. After the ceremony headed straight to Hotel after dinner we were discussing the memories of the trip as Chirag would leave us on the next day.

Day 17, 22nd June 2010

Started at 06:00 AM sharp from Amritsar. Our today’s route was Amritas – Jandial – Taran Taran Bypass – Harike bypass – Ferozepur bypass – Sriganganagar – Bikaner – Nagore – Jodhpur – Pali – Abu Road – Ambaji – Himatnagar – Ahmedabad(Ring Road) – Dombivli. Alternate route is through Delhi Jaipur, but you end up doing more kms & paying more toll. So the route which we took in with minimum traffic and almost no toll. On the way to Ferozepur we saw an live accident were a tempo auto got stuck between 2 trucks on the bridge, it was horrifying, tempo driver was useless character. However every one was safe. We crossed Punjab and moved into Rajasthan suddenly snow turned into sand and terrible heat wave on the way to Bikaner from Sriganganagar. Had a lunch at pure dhaba on the Sriganganagar Bikaner road. We actually had a dinner with truck drivers they were very welcoming and offered to pay our bill, we thanked them and insisted on paying their bill alongwith us. Reached Bikaner around 05:30 PM started for Jodhpur around 06:00 PM from Bikaner. Jodhpur was 220 kms away. On the way we passed through the Temple name “Karni Mata” the only thing we saw in the temple was mouse everywhere in 1000s, we are suppose to have same Prasad from which mouse feeds themselves. Phenomenon is not even single mouse will come out from Temple campus. After darshan we started for Jodhpur around 10:00 PM we were at Jodhpur after having dinner at cool dhaba we headed for the final run to Himatnagar crossing Pali, Abu road, Ambaji.

Day 18, 23rd June 2010

And finally, finally around 04:00 AM we reached Himatnagar, Chirag was back to his sweet home. Everyone welcomed us after chatting for hour or so we decided to sleep. But sleep was out of question so after darshan at Temple at our respective native place, we headed straight to Mumbai after driving for 8 hours we reached Dombivli at 10:30 PM, my mom & dad were at Janak’s place so everyone welcomed us, after some pooja, headed straight for dinner and chatting went on for 2 hours finally we slept at 02:00 AM. Next day was like photo seeing session and around 02:00 PM we left Janak’s place, on the way we paid to tribute to Lord Shiva’s temple on the Ghodbunder road and finally me and jatan were back to our sweet home.

Summary

Trip Date

5th June 2010 to 24th June 2010

Members

Janak H. Japee, Dombivli Maharashtra

Chirag P. Pathak Himatnagar, Gujarat

Nandeep D.Pathak Mumbai, Maharashtra

Jatan D. Pathak Mumbai, Maharashtra

Vehicle

Mahindra Scorpio DX

Kilometers Covered

7500

Route

Dombivli – Dahisar – Surat – Baroda – Ahmedabad(Ring Road) – Himatnagar – Udaipur – Jaipur – Delhi – Panipat – Ambala – Chandigarh – Ropar – Swarghat – Kullu – Manali - Kullu - Mandi – Pathankot – Jammu(Katra) – Patnitop – Srinagar – Gulmarg – Drass Kargil – Leh – Pangong Tso Lake(Lukung) – Khardungla Pass – Leh – Kargil – Srinagar – Jammu – Amritsar – Wagah Border – Ferozepur – Sriganganagar – Bikaner – Jodhpur – Abu Road – Ambaji – Himatnagar – Ahmedabad(Ring Road) – Baroda- Surat – Dombivli – Dahisar.

Places Visited

Manali, Vaishnodevi, Patnitop, Srinagar, Gulmarg, Drass, Kargil, Kargil war memorial, Leh, Pangong Tso Lake, Khardungla Pass, Amritsar, Wagah Border and Karni Mata Temple near Bikaner.

We are thankful to Shree Sarjan Yuyak Sangh for encouragement for our expedition.

We dedicate our trip to our parents who had immense courage to send us for such an expedition.

Plesae excuse me for any errors in narrating the trip.
Further if anyone is interested in knowing the brief detail of the trip, please revert me at

Contact : 022 -28962640

Mobile : 09323217962

Email : nndp87@yahoo.co.in

Regards

All the members of the Trip

Janak, Chirag, Nandeep & Jatan.